Climbing holds for the world

Tom Petzold & Blocz

Climbing and bouldering have been enjoying increasing popularity in recent years, and not just in Chemnitz. A group of climbing enthusiasts from Chemnitz picked up on this trend and brought the production of climbing holds, footholds and mats to the city. In their workshop on the site of the former spinning machine factory, they tinker and work on shapes, colours and materials to produce high-quality climbing gym equipment. Tom Petzold is part of the four-person Blocz team and is responsible for the commercial side of things. In this interview, he talks to us about new projects and climbing habits in different countries.

How did you come up with the idea of founding Blocz?
Tom Petzold: We were always tired of travelling to Dresden or Leipzig in winter to go indoor climbing there. We then decided to set up our own bouldering hall in Chemnitz in 2010. We built the walls, holds and rooms ourselves according to our ideas and wishes. That was more for fun on the side.

How did Blocz develop from there?
The response to the Boulderlounge was very good and this encouraged us to open another bouldering hall in Frankfurt am Main in 2013. We trained many employees, procured machines and materials and accumulated expertise - that's how Blocz was born. Initially, we only supplied other bouldering gyms that we were friends with. At the time, there was only one other supplier in Germany. We didn't want to compete on price, but on quality. Later on, we increasingly took over the complete design of the halls: from walls and holds to the climbing mats.

The volumes and climbing holds made in Chemnitz are sold worldwide - from the United States to Europe, South Korea, Japan and Australia. Down Under, the bouldering scene is still in its infancy. The Chemnitz-based company Blocz not only built the walls for the bouldering hall in Canberra, but also joined in as a partner. Helping to shape the upswing in the bouldering scene and climbing culture - that is what motivates the group around Blocz to become active far away from Chemnitz. "It's also exciting to get to know the different international climbing styles and to find suitable holds from our product range," says Tom. In Germany, technical and calm climbing is favoured, while the Americans prefer strength and muscle-intensive climbing and the Japanese climb very dynamically and jump a lot. The mentality of the country is reflected in the climbing habits.

Why is the indoor climbing market booming so much in Germany?
It's a popular after-work sport that you can do without any previous experience. Compared to the gym, you have more variety and can socialise with other people, e.g. when discussing routes and techniques. In this way, Germany has developed the narrowest and highest-quality market in Europe. There is now an incredible density of climbing and bouldering centres. Nevertheless, we are seeing growth of up to 10 per cent every year, more walls are being added and the halls are becoming more and more crowded.

Is the topography of a region decisive for the success of a bouldering lounge?
The landscape and the crowds in a bouldering hall are decoupled. Most people practise bouldering as an after-work sport and don't go out to climb. The topography is therefore not relevant. Of course, people are more open to a climbing or bouldering hall if outdoor climbing is also possible in the area because they simply know it. In Hamburg, for example, it takes a while before people dare to try indoor climbing.

You run bouldering centres in Dresden, Frankfurt and Australia. What is planned next for Chemnitz?
We want to open a new hall, the current one is simply bursting at the seams. The new bouldering lounge will have three times the floor space, so we can create a new sense of space. The ceilings are much higher, the room is much brighter, it's a much more pleasant atmosphere. We will equip the hall with our own products and create a kind of showroom for Blocz.

The new bouldering hall is also due to open on the Spinnerei site in March 2018. In addition to new routes and designs, there will finally be a dedicated children's area spread over 150 square metres. With functional fitness (editor's note: using your own body and weight, without additional sports equipment), a whole new way of doing sports is moving into the bouldering hall. There will be yoga classes and the lounge area will also be remodelled. "In the new bouldering hall, everything will be raised to a higher and more modern level," Tom is already looking forward to it.

Where do you see your company and the city in 2025?
Both we and the city will become more international. With Blocz, we will increasingly go to other countries and expand partnerships. Chemnitz should continue on the path that the city has started in recent years. For me, this includes expanding the Technology Campus and strengthening the university and its start-ups. When it comes to sport, I would like to see other sports receive more attention. So far, the focus has been too much on football. Chemnitz has many world-class athletes in gymnastics, for example, and this needs to be recognised and promoted. Sport is also important for the Capital of Culture bid.